How to Make Chocolate from Cacao Beans

Chocolate is a beloved treat that has been enjoyed for centuries. While it’s often thought of as a guilty pleasure, the truth is that high-quality chocolate made from fresh cacao pods can be both delicious and nutritious. By making your own chocolate from scratch, you have complete control over the ingredients and can create a treat that is both indulgent and healthy.

In this recipe, you’ll learn how to turn fresh cacao pods into rich and creamy chocolate that can be used in a variety of delicious confections. From bars to truffles, the possibilities are endless! I will show you how to ferment cacao beans, how to roast cacao beans, and how to temper chocolate.

Why fermenting cacao beans?

Fermenting cacao beans is a critical step in the process of making chocolate, as it helps to develop the flavor and aroma of the beans that make chocolate so beloved.

During fermentation, natural yeasts on the beans begin to break down the sugars in the pulp. This creates a mixture of organic acids and alcohols, which contribute to the development of flavor and aroma. The length and temperature of the fermentation process can impact the final flavor profile of the chocolate.

Under-fermented chocolate will have a less developed aroma and lack the depth of flavor that is characteristic of properly fermented chocolate. The chocolate may also have a coarser texture, as the fermentation process helps to break down some of the natural sugars in the beans and make the chocolate smoother.

Testing 4 methods of fermenting cacao beans：

1. Banana leaf + plastic box

I have heard that wrapping cacao beans in banana leaves during the fermentation process is a traditional practice in some regions where cacao is grown. The banana leaves help to retain heat and moisture, which is important for promoting the growth of the beneficial bacteria and yeasts that are responsible for fermenting the cacao beans.

Therefore, for group 1, I wrapped a quarter of the cacao beans with 2 sheets of banana leaves, then place it in a sealed plastic box.

2. Plastic bag + plastic box

I spent a lot of efforts in order to get some fresh banana leaves. I was wondering whether the banana leaves were necessary for chocolate fermentation.

For group 2, I used a plastic food storage bag to substitute the banana leaves in group 1.

Since it is important to drain the liquid that is produced during the fermentation of cacao beans. I poked some holes on the plastic bag and drain the liquid from the box daily. The liquid is a mixture of water, yeast, bacteria, and cacao wine.

Draining the fermentation juice helps to reduce the moisture content of the beans, which is important for preventing spoilage and promoting even and consistent fermentation. It also helps to prevent the growth of unwanted yeasts and bacteria that can negatively impact the flavor of the final chocolate.

3. Fermentation jar

Nobody has ever fermented cacao beans in a fermentation jar. I just did that out of curiosity.

A fermentation jar with a water seal works by creating an anaerobic environment that allows beneficial bacteria to ferment the food while preventing air and other harmful bacteria from entering the jar. The water seal acts as a barrier, preventing air from entering the jar and promoting the growth of lactic acid bacteria, which can prevent the cacao beans from growing molds.

4. Banana leaf + insulated container

Typically, cacao bean fermentation takes place at a temperature between 70°F to 85°F. This temperature range is optimal for the growth of yeast and lactic acid bacteria, which are responsible for breaking down the sugars in the beans and producing the flavors and aromas that will be present in the final chocolate.

For group 4, I wrapped cacao beans in banana leaves, then placed them in an insulated container.

The fermentation process can produce heat as a result of the metabolic activity of the microorganisms involved in the fermentation. The insulated container should be able to keep the cacao beans warm during the whole fermentation process.

Fermentation Results

I found an article online saying “To ferment cocoa beans without banana leaves, you will need to find an enclosed space with a temperature between 70-85°F (21-28°C) and a humidity level of 80-90%.”

Since it is in winter, my room temperature is around 65°F, which is too cold for the cacao bean to ferment. So I kept all four groups of cacao beans in my oven, and place a big pan of hot water on the bottom of the oven to create a warm and humid environment. I changed the water three times daily. The oven temperature was between 70-80°F.

7 days later, the results were not good:

There were molds growing in all the groups except the fermentation jar group. At least it proofed that a fermentation jar with water seal can effectively prevent bacteria from entering the jar.

Fermented cacao beans typically have a brownish color and a slightly wrinkled appearance. They often have a distinctive aroma that is slightly sour, with hints of fruit and chocolate. However, the cacao pulps in the fermentation jar were juicy and white with a mild alcohol smell. It is obvious that these cacao beans were under fermented.

The cacao beans in the insulated container grew the most molds. These molds were green and powdery, which could be harmful and toxic to our health. So I had to discard this whole group of cacao beans.

The molds in the two plastic container groups were white and slimy. I picked out all the molded cacao beans, and collected those unmolded ones in a proofing box.

In conclusion, none of these for groups of cacao beans had been fermented successfully. 🥲

How to ferment the cacao beans without molding?

After the first four failed attempts, I concluded some tips to maintain a controlled environment and to follow good hygiene practices:

1. Drain the cacao beans: During the fermentation process, we should drain the extra liquid from the cacao beans daily, so that they won’t be soaked in fermentation juice. Since the fermentation juice contains a small amount of alcohol, which could stop the cacao beans from fermenting.

2. Choose the right container: Select a clean, airtight container that is free of any cracks or holes that could allow mold or other contaminants to enter. The insulated bag I used was not airtight, that’s why that group of cacao beans grew the most molds. I used a pizza dough proofing box.

3. Change the banana leaves daily: You can cover the cacao beans with clean banana leaves to keep them moist. However, according to my observation, the banana leaves got molds even before the cacao beams. Therefore, if you choose to use banana leaves, make sure to change the banana leaves daily to prevent the growth of mold.

4. Monitor temperature and humidity: Fermentation of cacao beans occurs at a temperature between 70-85°F and with a humidity level of 80-90%. This environment is optimal for the growth of yeast and lactic acid bacteria. Lactic acid bacteria produce lactic acid as a byproduct of their metabolic activity, which lowers the pH of the fermented cacao beans. This low pH environment makes it difficult for molds and other unwanted microorganisms to grow.

Although I placed hot water in the oven 3 times daily to keep the environment warm and humid, the oven temperature dropped fast as time went by.

Therefore, the best solution is using the “proofing mode” of your oven and leave it on during the whole fermentation process. Each oven has a different proofing temperature, you can use a thermometer to monitor it to make sure that the oven temperature is between 80 – 90°F.

5. Stir the cacao beans regularly: Stir the cacao beans every 12 to 24 hours to distribute the yeast and bacteria evenly and to prevent the growth of mold. Keep the container closed and sealed for the rest of the time to prevent contamination by mold.

6. Check for mold regularly: As you stir the cacao beans daily, check them for signs of mold growth, and discard any beans that show signs of mold.

For my second attempt, I placed all the cacao beans in an airtight proofing box (you can use any type of food-grade airtight box), and fermented the beans in my oven at the “proofing mode” (85°F). I opened the box to drain excess fermentation juice, and stir the cacao beans daily, until they turned into a brownish color after 3 days of fermentation.

The actual fermentation time could be vary based on several of factors, such as size, type, and amount of cacao beans, oven humidity and temperature, the frequency and intensity of mixing and stirring. In general, cacao bean fermentation usually takes 3 to 7 days.

Roasting the cacao beans

According to Institute of Culinary Education: “Typical cacao roasting temperatures range from 250-275°F up to 350°F, with the roasting process lasting between 30-90 minutes.”

The roasting time could be vary depending on the size, amount, and the humidity of the cacao beans. Ideally use the “convection roast” mode to roast cacao beans if your oven has that function. But it’s also okay to use “convection bake” mode or the basic “bake” mode.

I roasted my cacao beans at 275°F for 90 minutes. If the lowest temperature of your oven is higher than that, for example 300°F, you should shorten the roasting time.

Observe the cacao beans during the last roasting stage. Take one out from the oven, allow it to cool a bit, then try to use your thumb and index finger to crack the cacao bean. If you are able to crack the cacao bean and peel off its shell easily, the roasting step is done. 

Temper the chocolate 

Tempering chocolate is a process that helps to stabilize the cocoa butter crystals in melted chocolate, giving it a glossy, smooth texture and preventing bloom (white discoloration that occurs when chocolate is exposed to changes in temperature).

Here are some of the most common methods for tempering chocolate:

1. Seed Method: This method involves melting the chocolate to its working temperature, then adding a small amount of tempered chocolate (the “seed”) to the melted chocolate and stirring until the temperature is consistent.
2. Tabling Method: This method involves spreading the melted chocolate out on a cool surface, such as a marble slab, and working it with a spatula until it reaches the desired temperature.
3. Microwave Method: This method involves melting the chocolate in a microwave-safe bowl, then stirring in small amounts of tempered chocolate to bring the temperature down to the desired level.
4. Indirect Heating Method: This method involves melting the chocolate in a heat-resistant bowl set over a bowl of hot water, then cooling it down over a bowl of iced water. – We are going to use this method today.

I tried the indirect heating method (see detailed instructions below), however, my tempered and untempered chocolates only looked slightly different and tasted almost the same. Maybe it’s because my food thermometer wasn’t accurate enough. Anyway, they were both super rich and delicious!

EQUIPMENT you will need:

• Oven with proofing/warm function
• Proofing box 
• Large baking sheet
• Blender
• Food thermometer (Optional; Skip it if you choose to skip the chocolate tempering process.)
• Chocolate molds 

INGREDIENTS List:

• 15 fresh cacao pods (I bought a 16 lbs cacao fruit box and received 15 cacao pods. These cacao pods yielded about 350g cacao nibs after fermented and roasted.)
• 150 g powdered sugar (Ideally use powdered sugar. Can also use granulated sugar, but it will give your blender more work to do.)
  • The ratio of sugar to cacao powder will vary depending on individual preferences and the specific type of chocolate you’re making. In general, a good starting point is 1:1, meaning that you use equal parts sugar and cacao powder. This will result in a balanced flavor that is not too bitter and not too sweet.
  • I personally like darker, more intense chocolate, so my sugar to cacao powder ratio is slightly lower than 1:2 (150g powdered sugar : 350g cacao powder).
• 50 g cacao butter (optional)
  • Cacao butter is an essential ingredient in chocolate-making because it helps to give chocolate a smooth texture, a rich flavor, and a glossy surface.  
  • In a chocolate factory, the grinding process for making dark chocolate can take up to 48 hours or more. Cacao nibs will naturally release cacao butter and become smooth after such a long period of grinding. However, it’s unlikely for us to grind cacao nibs for hours at home. Therefore, the best solution is to add some extra cacao butter. 
  • The ratio of cacao butter to chocolate should be close to 1:10. An easy way is to plus the weight of cacao powder (350g) and the weight of sugar (150g), then divide it by 10 to get the weight of cacao butter: (350g+150g)/10=50g

Step-by-step INSTRUCTIONS 

1. Cut open the cacao pods into halves, remove the cacao beans from the shells. Place the beans into a proofing box, close the lid.

2. In cold weather, set your oven to proofing mode, with the oven temperate between 80°F to 90°F. Place the proofing box on the center rack of the oven, allow the cacao beans to ferment for 3 to 5 days. In hot weather, you can set the proofing box on your countertop if the room temperature is higher than 80°F. Or you can place it outdoor in your yard or balcony, as long as the proofing box is airtight, remember to avoid direct sunlight. Open the proofing box daily to drain excess liquid and stir the cacao beans.

3. Fermented cacao beans should look brownish yellow and have a fruity alcoholic smell. Line a large baking sheet with foil, transfer the fermented cacao beans to the baking sheet, spread evenly into a single layer. Use the “Convection Roast” mode to roast the cacao beans at 275 °F for about 90 minutes until the shells turn brown and crispy. Be sure to stir the beans regularly (about every 20 minutes) to ensure even roasting.

4. Remove the baking sheet from the oven, allow the cacao beans to cool until it’s not too hot to be touched. Take a bean, crack it with your thumb and index finger, then peel off its shell. Repeat until all the cacao beans are peeled into cacao nibs.

5. Add the cacao nibs to a blender, or a mortar and pestle. Grind the cacao nibs on medium speed for about 3 minutes into cacao powder.

6. Add powdered sugar to the blender, optionally, add cacao butter (no need to melt) to the blender to create a smoother and creamier texture. Keep grinding until it forms a smooth paste. (The longer you grind, the smoother your chocolate will be. If your blender feels warm, let it rest and cool entirely internally before resuming grinding. I gave my blender a 15-minute break for every 5 minutes of working. I grinded the cacao nibs for about 30 minutes in total.)

7. Optionally temper the chocolate mixture. Prepare two large bowls, fill one of the bowl half way full with boiling water, fill the other bowl half way full with iced water. Place the bowl of chocolate mixture in the hot water, stir the chocolate continuously until it reaches 113°F. Then, place the chocolate bowl in the ice bath and stir continuously until it reaches 82°F. Finally place the bowl of chocolate mixture in the hot water again, stir continuously until it reaches 88°F.

8. Pour the chocolate mixture into chocolate molds. Place the chocolate molds in the refrigerator and allow it to cool for about half hour until it’s fully set.

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